Few people have even heard of, much less seen, Boulder, Mont., a bucolic little town halfway between Helena and Butte. But some have, mostly folks suffering from autoimmune diseases such as rheumatoid arthritis. Each year thousands of them journey to Boulder from all points of the compass.

They come, not as tourists, but as prospectors. Not for gold, like the pioneers of bygone days, however. These seekers are prospecting for another kind of treasure, long-sought freedom from illness and pain. But like fortune hunters of the gold rush years, these pilgrims are tapping into the earth itself to fulfill their quest.

Boulder is the sole location in North America of radon health mines, old mines, uranium and other precious ores, where, for a nominal fee, you can descend underground and immerse yourself in radon gas. Yes, that's right, radon, one of the prominent figures on the EPA's public health threat list. I must admit, when I first heard about this (only recently I confess), I was skeptical. Radon is, after all, radioactive. But the people who operate these radon mines insist there is no danger, only amazing benefits attested to by happy and clearly satisfied clients who get genuine long-lasting relief from the proper doses of radon gas. Moreover, it turns out that radon therapy is widespread and growing in Europe and the Soviet Union, with clinical research to back it up. The Boulder radon mines, while they may be an idea whose time has come, are anything but a brand new development. The Free Enterprise Health Mine, the first one established, was founded by Wade Lewis, mining geologist, in 1952.

I had the opportunity to visit the Free Enterprise Health Mine recently. Stopping in Boulder to see a chiropractor client of mine, I planned to perhaps briefly stop by one of the mines and collect some literature. Our meeting turned into a complete tour, with my client enthusiastically describing to me the benefits of radon therapy. Practicing in Boulder two days a week, he envisions a health Mecca centered around the mine, where patients can receive a total natural health care program along with their radon treatment (which consists of simply sitting in an easy chair and breathing the radon gas for a maximum of 32 one-hour sessions, spread over a week to ten days). The chiropractor explains that radon (none is this is proven) appears to act on the pituitary gland, which then in turn stimulates the adrenal cortex to release hydrocortisone, the body's natural anti-inflammatory hormone. It is also believed, he continues, that radon increases the body's production of endorphins, little understood chemical mediators of the pleasure/pain response that may also boost immunity. At this point I'm getting interested.

The Free Enterprise Mine parking lot (unpaved) displays an assortment of license plates from all over the U.S. and Canada. We enter the lobby, where several senior citizens await their turn in the Inhalation Room, built recently to accommodate anyone with a fear of going underground. They have a look of quiet anticipation on their faces, a subtle joy almost, that reminds me of people who feel they have discovered a valuable secret. The room is modestly appointed, the woodwork is old, but everything has a clean, well-cared-for appearance.

A fifties-vintage elevator conveys us 85 feet underground to a mine drift consisting of an eight-foot wide tunnel. Descending through subterranean levels, I have a slightly intriguing sensation of passing backwards in time. We arrive at Level 8.

The well-lit pasage with rough boards on the walls and signature-filled wooden posts is lined with couches and chairs and provides an ample supply of books and magazines to help the guests pass their hours. A group of four seniors quietly engaged in a card game greets us with smiles. We introduce ourselves to a lone guest at the back of the room, a thirtysomething woman from Washington state. She is suffering from lupus, an autoimmune disease that inflames connective tissue. She has been on medication for thirteen years, she tells us, which has side-effects that are becoming increasingly intolerable. Her adrenal glands, she has been told, are almost non-functional. Willing to try anything, she has only had a few sessions so far, but is hopeful. Wishing her the best we continue on to another section.

The air in the mine seems extraordinarily clear and I am enjoying the still coolness, detecting no odor of any kind. After ten minutes or so, I begin to experience a sense of well-being that becomes a mild exhilaration, and my heart rate has increased. My system is pretty sensitive. Could this be due to endorphin release? The elevator returns us topside and I feel sort of relieved, a feeling not unlike being back on the ground after a plane flight.

Perusing the literature in the lobby, one can find a collection of the latest studies and informaation regarding the radon controversy in addition to articles on health relative to the theory of radon and ionizing radiation therapy. A previous manager, Darryl Parker toured radon treatment centers in the Soviet Union with Clinton Miller of the National Health Federation in the late 1980's. With an obvious sense of mission he writes, Radon therapy is something that North America must not do without any longer!

Is radon therapy harmful? No long-term studies have been done to track people who have been to the mines, but proponents insist radon has been unjustly maligned. They claim the dose needed to cause harm exceeds that received through radon therapy, and point to overwhelming evidence of the treatment's validity.

The new owners are commited to documenting results received by mine visitors. Patricia Lewis, granddaughter of the founder, made a formal purchase of the business in 1994. She and her partner, Burdette Anderson, are committed to the promotion of radon therapy in the U.S. and Canada.

There are, without question, thousands of people such as Leslie Brooks of Memphis, Tennessee who are most likely unconcerned about clinical studies and scientific data. Having come to the mine with severe arthritis she testifies, I was stiff and could not straighten my leg out. I was able to ride a bicycle before I went home. My client became a believer after a 12-year-old acquaintance, crippled by rheumatoid arthritis, visited the mine. Anti-inflammatory medication was about to make her go blind. She returns once a year, now a normal, healthy young lady of 16.

Will I start recommending the radon mines to my clients? Probably not, at least until I investigate further. On the other hand, it could be worth a try for someone who is at the end of their medical rope. My gut feeling? I suspect the day may not be far-off when health experts say there is more than gold in the Montana hills.